Tried & True: Pearls
A deep dive into granny's favorite gem.
Hello, my dears! Welcome to Tried & True—a new series dedicated to timeless design treasures that continue to captivate me (and hopefully you, too!). Together, we’ll explore their storied pasts, modern revivals, and enduring allure. First up: pearls. Worn by royalty, movie stars, and first ladies alike, a single strand carries a history as luminous as the gem itself. Let’s dive in (pun very much intended!), shall we?
What Is A Pearl and Where Do They Come From?
Let’s begin with the basics. A pearl is a natural gem formed inside the shell of a mollusk—usually an oyster or mussel—as a protective response to an irritant, like a grain of sand. Over time, the mollusk coats the intruder with layers of nacre (also known as mother-of-pearl), creating the pretty sphere we admire.
While natural pearls—formed without any human intervention—are incredibly rare and prized, most pearls today are cultured, meaning the process is initiated by humans in controlled environments. Whether cultivated in oceans or freshwater lakes, these gems are still created through the same miraculous process. Some pearl farms offer tours, giving you a behind-the-scenes look at how the gems are cultivated and harvested.
Types of Pearls
Not all pearls are created equal. The two main categories are freshwater and saltwater pearls—and within those, there is a wide variety of styles. From lustrous classics to moody, iridescent beauties (a personal favorite!), each pearl type is shaped by its origin, environment, and the mollusk that made it. Here’s a primer on the most beloved varieties:
Freshwater Pearls: Slightly more irregular and budget friendly. Cultivated in rivers and lakes, largely in China.
Akoya Pearls: Classic and round with mirror-like luster. Most often found in traditional strands. Cultivated mainly in Japan.
South Sea Pearls: Larger and creamier, often found in white or golden hues. Cultivated in Australia and the Philippines.
Tahitian Pearls: Naturally dark, often gray to black with peacock overtones. Cultivated in French Polynesia—truly striking!
A Brief History of Pearls
Revered since antiquity, pearls have long symbolized wealth, beauty, and femininity. In ancient Persia, they were linked to the moon and purity; in Rome, they were the ultimate status symbol—so much so that Julius Caesar limited their wear to the ruling class. Cleopatra famously proved her extravagance by dissolving a pearl in vinegar and drinking it (talk about a power move)!
By the Renaissance, sumptuary laws reserved pearls for nobility, and in the 18th and 19th centuries, natural pearls fetched astronomical prices. Then came Coco Chanel, who democratized the gem in the 20th century, layering pearls over knits and tweeds. From Audrey Hepburn to Jackie Kennedy, pearls became shorthand for effortless chic.
Today, pearls are more approachable than ever. Designers embrace their organic shapes and natural imperfections, incorporating them into more relaxed, bohemian pieces. From beachy baroque strands to sculptural earrings, the modern pearl is proof that elegance needn’t be stuffy.
Did You Know?
In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto—the son of a Japanese noodle maker—successfully created the world’s first cultured pearl in a small bay near Toba, Japan. At the time, natural pearls were rare, wildly expensive, and harvested at great risk by pearl divers.
Mikimoto’s breakthrough changed everything. After years of experimentation, he managed to grow a perfectly round pearl by inserting a tiny irritant into an oyster—a method now used worldwide.
Today, Mikimoto is known as the father of cultured pearls, and his legacy lives on in the gleaming strands worn by royalty, politicians, and fashion icons alike.
What Makes a Pearl Valuable?
Some pearls are simply pretty, while others are deemed truly exceptional. Their value is assessed through a careful combination of factors, including:
Luster: The most important quality indicator. High-luster pearls have a sharp, mirror-like reflection and a glowing depth.
Surface: Fewer blemishes or spots mean a more valuable pearl. Minor imperfections are natural but should be minimal on high-grade pearls.
Shape: Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most prized, though baroque (irregular) shapes have their own artistic appeal. In fact, these are my personal preference!
Size: All else equal, larger pearls tend to be more valuable. South Sea and Tahitian pearls are typically the largest.
Color: Pearls come in a range of hues, from classic white to gold, pink, silver, and deep greenish-black. The rarity and desirability of a color can influence the value.
Nacre Quality: We’re getting into the nitty gritty here! The nacre is the pearl’s outer layer. Thick, even nacre creates a more durable and radiant gem.
Did You Know?
One of the most famous pearls in history was nearly swallowed by Elizabeth Taylor’s dog.
Discovered in the 1500s off the coast of Panama, La Peregrina (”The Wanderer”) is a stunning pear-shaped pearl weighing over 50 carats. It passed through the hands of Spanish kings, French emperors, and English nobility, even appearing in paintings by Diego Velázquez and Peter Paul Rubens.
In the 1960s, Richard Burton famously gifted it to Elizabeth Taylor, who once misplaced it only to later find it in the mouth of her pet Lhasa Apso (luckily it only suffered minor scratches)!
Set by Cartier and worn by Taylor in countless portraits, La Peregrina was eventually sold at auction to a private collection for over $11 million.
Where to Buy Pearls
For those with deep pockets, heritage houses like Mikimoto and Tiffany & Co. still offer pearls of the finest quality. That said, there’s no shortage of contemporary designers reimagining the classic gem at a more palatable price point. I cherish a baroque pearl necklace I have from Lizzie Fortunato, and during my time in Copenhagen, I fell for Sophie Bille Brahe’s romantic, modern spin on the pearl. Other current favorites include Mizuki, Eliou, and Mateo—all well worth exploring.
In fashion, Chanel all but wrote the book on pearls, weaving them into the brand’s identity. Irish designer Simone Rocha has also made pearls her signature—her now-iconic pearlized egg bag is a modern heirloom. Today, you’ll find pearls adorning everything from cashmere sweaters and beaded collars to vintage evening bags and ballet flats. Think less granny, more chic.
Mother-of-pearl lends a quiet glamour to interiors, too. Gohar World sells whimsical mother-of-pearl pieces perfect for your next dinner party, while inlaid mother-of-pearl furniture and decor—often crafted in India, Egypt, and Syria—brings a timeless elegance to any space. Etsy, Chairish, and eBay are my go-to sources for these handcrafted crafted finds.
Caring For Your Pearls
Keep your pieces in tiptop shape with a little TLC:
Last on, first off: Always put your pearls on after applying makeup, perfume, or hairspray. The goal is to avoid contact with chemicals.
Wipe them down: After each wear, gently wipe pearls with a soft cloth to remove any residue or oils.
Store with care: Keep them in a fabric-lined box or soft pouch, separate from other jewelry to prevent scratches.
Wear them often: Pearls can actually benefit from your skin’s natural oils, but don’t swim or shower in them.
Restring as needed: If you wear pearls frequently, consider having them professionally restrung every couple of years.
Treat them gently, and your pearls will last for generations.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this first Tried & True deep dive! You can find all the pieces from this post saved here. Do you already own a treasured piece of pearl jewelry or decor? I’d love to hear in the comments!
xx Katie
I’ve been wearing my Mum’s pearl necklace layered with some gold chains. For a long time, I wasn’t drawn to them but more recently I reach for them a lot.
Great post! Would love more in depth info like this. Thank you!